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Mit freundlicher Genehmigung von Chiumanfu (ion.chiumanfu.com).
The purpose of this mod is to move all the indicator lights and buttons to the outside of the frame so you can change settings and view the board status without opening the grips.
After the mod is complete, you will be able to turn the ion on/off and turn the eye's on/off using the top teardrop button on the membrane pad at the back of the frame. You will be able to put the board into programming mode to change the settings by pressing the eye button on the membrane pad at the back of the frame. If the mods fail for any reason, both the stock buttons are still totally useable. It can be tourney locked easily as well.
COMPLETE PARTS KITS ARE AVAILABLE HERE
Let's start out by laying out all the materials needed
Dye DM4 Membrane Pad or equivalent. Timmy pads will not work.
Blackheart Adapter (PN = BH_ADAPTER)
5mm Red LED (PN = Liteon LTL-2R3VEKNT)
5mm Yellow LED (PN = Liteon LTL-2R3VYKNT)
5mm Blue LED (PN = Liteon LTL2P3TBK5)
Black Wire 28AWG (PN = Belden 8597 010)
Red Wire 28AWG (PN = Belden 8597 002)
Heatshrink 1/16" (PN = Alpha FIT-221B-1/16 BK)
Start by measuring out the position for the membrane pad. Do not stick it on yet! Make sure to put it high enough on the back of the grip so the connector is straight and lined up with the bottom of the battery compartment. Mark it's position with a pencil.
Measure out and mark the center line for the LEDs. Mark off three horizontal cross lines. The first one about 5mm up from the DM4 pad mark and about 8mm between each LED.
Use a center punch to give the drill bit something to grab onto. This is important to ensure that the holes are all perfectly lined up.
Clamp the frame in a vise using a folded paper towel to protect the frame from teeth marks. Make sure to clamp the frame by the lower handle only. If you clamp the frame on the upper section, you could easily squish the sides of the trigger frame together and the board will no longer fit. Drill a small pilot hole for each of the three LED cross-hashes. Use a 5mm drill bit to drill the three holes. For you yanks and your wacky imperial system use a 3/16" drill bit and enlarge the holes slightly with a circular file. Take your time when drilling and make sure to line it up perfectly with your center punches.
Use a standard 82* countersink bit to finish the holes. Again, make sure to line it up on both x and y axis before lowering the bit. Remember to remove all flashing on the inside of the frame with a small file.
Here's the modded frame. Paint the countersinks to match your frames colour.
Now you have to break out your soldering equipment. I can't stress enough that the Blackheart board uses very small surface mount components. Most packages are 0603 size and the actual PCB is pretty low quality and fragile. Use too much heat and you'll lift the pads and destroy the board. A fine tiped iron is a must and a temperature control unit will help. A soldering gun will NOT work! A coldheat soldering iron will NOT work! You should have some water soluble flux and some solder wick to do a proper job. I highly suggest only attempting this if you have previous SMT soldering experience and the proper equipment. If you a soldering newbie and absolutely must attempt this, practice on an old cell phone board or an old graphics card or any other techno scrap you may have lying around. Try removing components and then putting them back on.
Desoldering SMT components is easier if you add a blob of solder to each side of the component. Then with the soldering iron, quickly bounce back and forth between the blobs like you're stick handling a hockey puck. Eventually, both blobs will be melted at the same time and the part will slide right off. Do not pry up the part with the tip! Do not leave the heat on one pad for too long! Make sure your tip is clean and tinned.
First remove the power LED. It is labelled D3 on the PCB.
When the LED slides off, make note of how it came out. There is a strip on the back side that shows the proper orientation. Write this info down just incase you want to put it back in for some reason. Clean off the old solder with some solder wick then add a touch of fresh solder.
Flip the board over and locate D4 (Red LED) and D5 (Yellow LED) down by the trigger switch. Use the same procedure to remove these two LEDs. Go slow and take your time.
The Blackheart adapter consists of a single SPST CMOS switch in a uber-tiny SOT23-5 package and four 0603 SMT resistors.
If you'd like to built your own, here is the schematic.
Hier gibt es noch eine Skizze dazu.
Strip and tin the Blackheart Adapter's yellow and black wires. Solder the yellow wire to the lower pad of the programming button. Solder the black wire to the upper pad of the programming button. Make sure that there is no solder bridges to any other components or the metal cover of the switch. Feed the wires through the lower hole in the trigger swtich to provide a strain relief.
Tie the Blackheart Adapter's red and white wires to the storage capacitor to provide a strain relief. Trim the wires to the appropriate length to reach the power button pads. Strip and tin the red and white wires. Solder the white wire to the lower pad of the power button. Solder the red wire to the upper pad of the power button. Make sure that there is no solder bridges to any other components or the metal cover of the switch.
Strip and tin a 1 foot length of red wire. Solder it to the lower pad of D3 as shown. Route the wire up through the hose cutout.
Tie the wire to the storage capacitor as shown. Make sure the knot is on the opposite side of the Blackheart Adapater wire knots.
Strip and tin a 1 foot length of black wire. Solder it to the upper pad of D3 as shown. Route the wire up through the hose cutout.
Tie the wire to the storage capacitor as shown. Make sure the knot is on the opposite side of the Blackheart Adapater wire knots.
Solder a 1 foot length of black wire to the upper pad of D5. Make sure that there is no solder bridges to any other components and keep the end of the wire away from the edge of the board. That edge has to be clear so it can slide into the trigger frame. Wrap the wire over the Blackheart Adapter wires then back around through the upper hole in the trigger switch.
Solder a 1 foot length of rede wire to the lower pad of D5. Make sure that there is no solder bridges to any other components and keep the end of the wire away from the edge of the board. That edge has to be clear so it can slide into the trigger frame. Wrap the wire over the Blackheart Adapter wires then back around through the upper hole in the trigger switch.
Solder a 1 foot length of black wire to the upper pad of D4. Make sure that there is no solder bridges to any other components and keep the end of the wire away from the edge of the board. That edge has to be clear so it can slide into the trigger frame. Wrap the wire over the Blackheart Adapter wires then back around through the upper hole in the trigger switch.
Wrapping the wires around the Blakcheart Adpater wires keeps everything nice and tight against the trigger switch. This is important to allow the board to slide in and out of the frame smoothly.
Trim all the LED wires including the two coming from D3. You want them to be roughly the same length as the Blackheart Adapter. Grab the Blue LED Bend the leads 90 degrees and trim the leads down. Put two 10mm lengths of heatshrink onto the wires from D3 and slide them up out of the way. Solder the red and black wires from D3 to the Blue LED. The black wire from D3 (upper pad) connects to the lead that is closest to the flat spot on the edge of the LED casing. The red wire from D3 (lower pad) goes to the lead that is closest to the round side of the LED casing.
Grab the Amber LED. Bend the leads 90 degrees and trim the leads down. Put two 10mm lengths of heatshrink onto the wires from D5 and slide them up out of the way. The black wire from D5 (upper pad) connects to the lead that is closest to the flat spot on the edge of the LED casing. Cut a small 25mm length of red wire. Strip and tin both ends. Wrap it together with the red wire from D5 (lower pad). Solder both red wires to the LED lead that is closest to the round side of the LED casing. Slide the heatshrink down over both red wires.
Grab the Red LED. Bend the leads 90 degrees and trim the leads down. Put one 10mm length of heatshrink onto the black wire from D4 (upper pad) and slide it up out of the way. Put another 10mm length of heatshrink on the red jumper from the Amber LED and slide it up out of the way. The black wire from D4 (upper pad) connects to the lead that is closest to the flat spot on the edge of the LED casing. Solder the red jumper wire from the Amber LED to the Red LED lead that is closest to the round side of the LED casing.
Here's the simplified line drawing of all the connections.
Clean the board throughly with isopropanol alcohol and q-tips. Remember, flux is conductive and you have to get it all out of there or your board will do funny things (or not work at all). Let the board sit for a couple hours (or blow it out with compressed air) so any residual alcohol can exaporate. Now might be a good time to test it. Attach a battery and membrane pad. The correct way to connect the membrane pad is with the white wire towards the top but it will not damage the board either way. Push the power button on the membrane pad. Make sure the board behaves as usual. Remember, it's going to blink rapidly because your eye board is disconnected. Press the programming button on the membrane pad and make sure all the LEDs work properly. Once your satisfied that everything is working, shrink the tubing with a heatgun or a lighter. Be careful if using a lighter. You do not have to put the heatshrink into the flame, just close to it. Do not melt the plastic case of the LEDs.
This wiring layout works very well and is very robust. All the wires have a strain relief and nothing binds when sliding the board into the trigger frame.
Plug the LEDs into the holes. They should fit just tight enough so that they stay in the hole but not so tight that you can't get them out when you have to remove the board. I put the blue on top, then yellow, then red. You can put them in any order you like. Completely remove the grips and clean the area where the membrane pad will stick to. Any oily residue will lessen the sticking power of the glue on the membrane pad. Peel the backing off the membrane pad and stick it to the frame making sure that the connector clears the bump on the inside of the battery compartment. Lay the wires neatly in the bottom of the battery compartment.
Install the battery. If you did a proper job, there should be lots of room for the battery. Make sure the grips are not pinching any wires before you tighten the screws down.
Tourney Lock
If you are in a tourney and need to tourney lock your Ion, just flip the connector to the membrane pad and leave one pin unconnected as shown.
The stock power button is still functional so you can use it if you membrane pad fails.
Here's the final product. Note: the membrane pad is plugged in upside down, oops.
Here's a vid of cycling through the settings.
Download
Alternativer Schaltplan
Alternativ funktioniert auch ein Optokoppler, dazu hier der Schaltplan. Das schaut dann so aus
Das ist zwar etwas groß, aber dafür war ich der erste, der ein BH Board mit einem DYE Membran Pad betrieben hat.
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