JS
23.08.2002, 08:41
Hier mal ein Bericht, des Cocker-Gurus Ravi Chopra. Er ist in der PGI erschienen. Ravi hat zwar einige Probs, die den Griff falsch darstellen, aber sonst ganz gut...
Index Page:
53: The Fast and the Furious
RaceGun add an extra spark to the Autococker with their electronic trigger frame. Ravi Chopra checks out if it's worth your hard earned cash.
The Article:
For a long while, the electronic trigger existed solely in the realm of the tournament-level, extremely expensive paintgun.As time passed, less expensive electronic markers hit the market to the point where today, you can have an ultra-fast electro for $200. Aftermarket frames for most popular guns can also be purchased and fitted with ease.
The autococker has always been a tricky beast, though. Where most paintguns cycle with a single trigger action, the cocker has a two-stage pull where a 4-way valve has to be activated in the horizontal direction and a sear in the vertical.
This isn't to say that people haven't done it. The problem was that the early attempts were typically quite complex, either with multiple solenoids or pneumatic cylinders to operate the system. As a result, they had to be installed by the factory and made irreversible changes to the gun.
No ttoo long ago I started hearing about a new kit from RaceGun, a company out of Denmark. They'd built an electronic frame for the Autococker that could be bolted right on. After some coaxing, I managed to get them to send me a kit to try out. Since then, the frame has gone through a number of revisions. They've been promising to send them to me - causing me to delay this article longer and longer - though the parts have yet to arrive. As a result, I've decided to write up an article on the stufff I have (already pretty impressive): I've been promised the latest nits and pieces, which I plan on reviewing in a full article for the 2003 issue of What Paintball Gear?.
So, that said, you should keep in mind that this atricle covers the original version of the RaceGun electronic frame. Where I know what they are, I'll mention the changes that have come since, but I won't be able to evaluate how they've changed the product until I get a chance to try it out.
Ready to race
The RaceGun electronic frame is composed of a .45-style trigger frame with a contoured 2-finger trigger and guard. The frame itself contains the circuit board, controls, a rechargeable battery and a solenoid-driven sear that holds and releases the lug. The back of the frame has a trio of membrane buttons to turn the gun on and control the timer settings, a light to indicate status and a plg for power and programming from a PC.
A separate part is a bracket and solenoid that mounts in place of the 4-way valve. This solenoid is essentially the same thing as the gas-redirecting solenoids found in popular electropneumatic paintguns like the Angel, Shocker, Impulse, etc. A wire from the trigger frame can be run through the old holes where the timing rod had run to control this solenoid.
The trigger trips a dome-switch on the circuit boardthrough a rod that runs through the frame. When the dome-switch is tripped, the mechanical solenoid holding the lug is released, much like the sear is released in electronic blowback paintguns. After a circuit-determined delay, the solenoid in front - which switches the low pressure gas-flow - cycles the pneumatic cylinder to recock the gun and chamber a new paintball.
I understand that the new versions of the RaceGun frame come with a leaf-switch rather than a dome-switch. Smart Parts went through this change with the Shocker, resulting in a substantially improved trigger feel. Though I like the feel of the dome-switch trigger in the RaceGun frame, I'm anxious to see how the leaf-switch changes things.
New versions of the RaceGun frame also can be had with an eye to prevent it cycling before a paintball has fully chambered. Like the eyes in the Impulse and Intimidator, this feature allows you to maximise cycle rate without breaking paint in the breach. This does, though, require you to drill both sides of the paintgun around the breach for eye installation. I have not yet tested this accessory yet, though I should when I get a complete RaceGun Autococker for testing.
Also included is a car charger to recharge the battery housed in the frame. (A wall charger can be had as an option if you like.) This charger plugs into the jack at the back of the frame. A computer interface cord is also included to allow you to very precisely control the settings of the paintgun.
Easy install?
Installation of the RaceGun frame is fairly straightforward, but can be tricky for the first-time user. Bolting the frame in place and replacing the 4-way with the solenoid may seem simple, but there are some pitfalls if you don't know what you're doing. The biggest problem I had was pinching my hammer lug against the sear mechanism. Getting the lug height just right and installing it properly can be frustrating. I highly recommend reading the directions if you don't have it professionally installed.
Once you have the frame installed and lug height set (essentially as low as you can get it without trapping the hammer), timing is a snap. In fact, it should be properly set out of the box as everything is timed by the circuit board and comes stock cycling 9-10 shots per second.
If you want to change it, you'll need a PC, the interface cable and the RIP software (Racegun Interface Program) which you can download from the RaceGun website (www.racegun.dk).
The RIP software gives you full access to set all aspects of the guns timing - duration of sear drop, space between sear drop and cycling, time given for the ram to open, bolt-open duration and time given for the ram to close before the cycle is started again. It automatically calculates the maximum fire rate from your settings, so you know how fast you'll be able to shoot the gun. The software allows you to store multiple settings if you want to save one that worked well for you while testing a new one.
Also at your control is the firing mode. The frame ships in 'classic' mode where it fires just like a standard Autococker - pull he trigger back and the gun fires and cycles back and stays back as long as you hold the trigger in. It doesn't cycle back forward until you release the trigger. Many cocker shooters may like this, though I found it entirely too easy to short-stroke, with the electronic trigger lacking the timed-in delay for feeding the paintball.
I preferred the standard semi-automatic mode where each trigger event cycled the paintgun completely. I had no chopping problems and found it to work very well for me. Also available are turbo, burst and full-auto modes, all of which I think are an absolute waste of time.
Also adjustable in the RIP software are some settings for the built-in timer. I'll be honest - I never used the timer. I just didn't find it that useful without a display.
Rippin' it up
Bottom line: The RaceGun frame is a joy to use. Turning it on can be a bit of a pain-in-the-ass, though. You hit one button to turn it on, then have to depress two together to switch it from safe to fire mode. In warm weather it wasn't too bad, but for some reason in the cold it just didn't want to easily switch from safe to fire on the first try. Add that to the difficulty of telling whether or not you're hitting the correct buttons just right with gloves on and you'll see why I much prefer a power switch. I understand that they've changed the buttons on the new version and will evaluate them in the next review.
Once you do get it turned on, though, it's a blast. think Autococker with a half-millimetre trigger pull - it's simply outrageous. It takes some getting used to before you're completely comfortable with the electro-trigger pull followed by the traditional Aurococker cycle. The problem is that you can get off the trigger so fast that in classic mode it was way too easy to short stroke. In fact, it short-stroked so quickly that the paint wasn't being chopped... The bolt was coming forward too fast for it to even fee!
Put it in semi-auto, though, and it absolutley mows. You can just sit there and tap away on this ultra-short trigger and empty you hopper in seconds. Accuracy from the standard Cocker is, of course, unchanged.
If you like a little bit more that 1/2 to 1 mm of action in your trigger pull, you may be out of luck. Trigger adjustments are quite limited given the dome switch and trigger geometry. I'm anxious to see how the leaf-switch changes both the versatility and feel.
Though I've heard some people complain of reliability problems with the RaceGun frame, it's all been word-of-mouth. I've had no operational problems with the gun that I didn't cause myself by improperly timing it. Once set, it's been a pleasure to use and completely trouble-free.
I do have two complaints though: First the membrane buttons on the back of the frame are of a notoriously unreliable sort. They work fine, but the membrane material can break down over extended use. RaceGun told me that they have changed them to correct this on the new models.
Second, the battery dies if you don't unplug it from the board between days of play. While it never went dead on me during a game, even a week of having it sitting around turned off but plugged in resulted in a completely dead battery the next weekend. Pulling off the grips and unplugging the battery from the board preserved the charge and eliminated the nedd for a full recharge (not easy when you only have a car charger) every weekend. The new circuitry supposedly results in longer battery life. Hopefully they've addressed this issue as well.
My RaceGun frame was done out in gorgeous chrome, though you can have it in clear-coat and black anodizing as well. Contruction was first-rate as well. Everything fitted together perfectly well and appeared professionally assembled.
So should you get one?
The RaceGun electronic trigger frame for the Autococker is everything they advertise. It's relatively easy to install and set-up, permanent changes are not required, and it brings electro-fire-rates to the Autococker's sumptuous feel and legendary accuracy.
I'd argue that the timer is effectively useless in a gun without a display of some sort, but that's a small quibble. The draining battery is much more of a pain, though I can live with it given how well the thing works when you're shooting it.
The price is staggering, though. Over $600 is going to seem insanely expensive to many. to others who love how the cocker shoots but want the speed to keep up with the Angel shooting across the field, it will be money well spent.
I just can't wait to see the new version. Wait for a full review in the upcoming second issue of What Paintball Gear?.
JS
Index Page:
53: The Fast and the Furious
RaceGun add an extra spark to the Autococker with their electronic trigger frame. Ravi Chopra checks out if it's worth your hard earned cash.
The Article:
For a long while, the electronic trigger existed solely in the realm of the tournament-level, extremely expensive paintgun.As time passed, less expensive electronic markers hit the market to the point where today, you can have an ultra-fast electro for $200. Aftermarket frames for most popular guns can also be purchased and fitted with ease.
The autococker has always been a tricky beast, though. Where most paintguns cycle with a single trigger action, the cocker has a two-stage pull where a 4-way valve has to be activated in the horizontal direction and a sear in the vertical.
This isn't to say that people haven't done it. The problem was that the early attempts were typically quite complex, either with multiple solenoids or pneumatic cylinders to operate the system. As a result, they had to be installed by the factory and made irreversible changes to the gun.
No ttoo long ago I started hearing about a new kit from RaceGun, a company out of Denmark. They'd built an electronic frame for the Autococker that could be bolted right on. After some coaxing, I managed to get them to send me a kit to try out. Since then, the frame has gone through a number of revisions. They've been promising to send them to me - causing me to delay this article longer and longer - though the parts have yet to arrive. As a result, I've decided to write up an article on the stufff I have (already pretty impressive): I've been promised the latest nits and pieces, which I plan on reviewing in a full article for the 2003 issue of What Paintball Gear?.
So, that said, you should keep in mind that this atricle covers the original version of the RaceGun electronic frame. Where I know what they are, I'll mention the changes that have come since, but I won't be able to evaluate how they've changed the product until I get a chance to try it out.
Ready to race
The RaceGun electronic frame is composed of a .45-style trigger frame with a contoured 2-finger trigger and guard. The frame itself contains the circuit board, controls, a rechargeable battery and a solenoid-driven sear that holds and releases the lug. The back of the frame has a trio of membrane buttons to turn the gun on and control the timer settings, a light to indicate status and a plg for power and programming from a PC.
A separate part is a bracket and solenoid that mounts in place of the 4-way valve. This solenoid is essentially the same thing as the gas-redirecting solenoids found in popular electropneumatic paintguns like the Angel, Shocker, Impulse, etc. A wire from the trigger frame can be run through the old holes where the timing rod had run to control this solenoid.
The trigger trips a dome-switch on the circuit boardthrough a rod that runs through the frame. When the dome-switch is tripped, the mechanical solenoid holding the lug is released, much like the sear is released in electronic blowback paintguns. After a circuit-determined delay, the solenoid in front - which switches the low pressure gas-flow - cycles the pneumatic cylinder to recock the gun and chamber a new paintball.
I understand that the new versions of the RaceGun frame come with a leaf-switch rather than a dome-switch. Smart Parts went through this change with the Shocker, resulting in a substantially improved trigger feel. Though I like the feel of the dome-switch trigger in the RaceGun frame, I'm anxious to see how the leaf-switch changes things.
New versions of the RaceGun frame also can be had with an eye to prevent it cycling before a paintball has fully chambered. Like the eyes in the Impulse and Intimidator, this feature allows you to maximise cycle rate without breaking paint in the breach. This does, though, require you to drill both sides of the paintgun around the breach for eye installation. I have not yet tested this accessory yet, though I should when I get a complete RaceGun Autococker for testing.
Also included is a car charger to recharge the battery housed in the frame. (A wall charger can be had as an option if you like.) This charger plugs into the jack at the back of the frame. A computer interface cord is also included to allow you to very precisely control the settings of the paintgun.
Easy install?
Installation of the RaceGun frame is fairly straightforward, but can be tricky for the first-time user. Bolting the frame in place and replacing the 4-way with the solenoid may seem simple, but there are some pitfalls if you don't know what you're doing. The biggest problem I had was pinching my hammer lug against the sear mechanism. Getting the lug height just right and installing it properly can be frustrating. I highly recommend reading the directions if you don't have it professionally installed.
Once you have the frame installed and lug height set (essentially as low as you can get it without trapping the hammer), timing is a snap. In fact, it should be properly set out of the box as everything is timed by the circuit board and comes stock cycling 9-10 shots per second.
If you want to change it, you'll need a PC, the interface cable and the RIP software (Racegun Interface Program) which you can download from the RaceGun website (www.racegun.dk).
The RIP software gives you full access to set all aspects of the guns timing - duration of sear drop, space between sear drop and cycling, time given for the ram to open, bolt-open duration and time given for the ram to close before the cycle is started again. It automatically calculates the maximum fire rate from your settings, so you know how fast you'll be able to shoot the gun. The software allows you to store multiple settings if you want to save one that worked well for you while testing a new one.
Also at your control is the firing mode. The frame ships in 'classic' mode where it fires just like a standard Autococker - pull he trigger back and the gun fires and cycles back and stays back as long as you hold the trigger in. It doesn't cycle back forward until you release the trigger. Many cocker shooters may like this, though I found it entirely too easy to short-stroke, with the electronic trigger lacking the timed-in delay for feeding the paintball.
I preferred the standard semi-automatic mode where each trigger event cycled the paintgun completely. I had no chopping problems and found it to work very well for me. Also available are turbo, burst and full-auto modes, all of which I think are an absolute waste of time.
Also adjustable in the RIP software are some settings for the built-in timer. I'll be honest - I never used the timer. I just didn't find it that useful without a display.
Rippin' it up
Bottom line: The RaceGun frame is a joy to use. Turning it on can be a bit of a pain-in-the-ass, though. You hit one button to turn it on, then have to depress two together to switch it from safe to fire mode. In warm weather it wasn't too bad, but for some reason in the cold it just didn't want to easily switch from safe to fire on the first try. Add that to the difficulty of telling whether or not you're hitting the correct buttons just right with gloves on and you'll see why I much prefer a power switch. I understand that they've changed the buttons on the new version and will evaluate them in the next review.
Once you do get it turned on, though, it's a blast. think Autococker with a half-millimetre trigger pull - it's simply outrageous. It takes some getting used to before you're completely comfortable with the electro-trigger pull followed by the traditional Aurococker cycle. The problem is that you can get off the trigger so fast that in classic mode it was way too easy to short stroke. In fact, it short-stroked so quickly that the paint wasn't being chopped... The bolt was coming forward too fast for it to even fee!
Put it in semi-auto, though, and it absolutley mows. You can just sit there and tap away on this ultra-short trigger and empty you hopper in seconds. Accuracy from the standard Cocker is, of course, unchanged.
If you like a little bit more that 1/2 to 1 mm of action in your trigger pull, you may be out of luck. Trigger adjustments are quite limited given the dome switch and trigger geometry. I'm anxious to see how the leaf-switch changes both the versatility and feel.
Though I've heard some people complain of reliability problems with the RaceGun frame, it's all been word-of-mouth. I've had no operational problems with the gun that I didn't cause myself by improperly timing it. Once set, it's been a pleasure to use and completely trouble-free.
I do have two complaints though: First the membrane buttons on the back of the frame are of a notoriously unreliable sort. They work fine, but the membrane material can break down over extended use. RaceGun told me that they have changed them to correct this on the new models.
Second, the battery dies if you don't unplug it from the board between days of play. While it never went dead on me during a game, even a week of having it sitting around turned off but plugged in resulted in a completely dead battery the next weekend. Pulling off the grips and unplugging the battery from the board preserved the charge and eliminated the nedd for a full recharge (not easy when you only have a car charger) every weekend. The new circuitry supposedly results in longer battery life. Hopefully they've addressed this issue as well.
My RaceGun frame was done out in gorgeous chrome, though you can have it in clear-coat and black anodizing as well. Contruction was first-rate as well. Everything fitted together perfectly well and appeared professionally assembled.
So should you get one?
The RaceGun electronic trigger frame for the Autococker is everything they advertise. It's relatively easy to install and set-up, permanent changes are not required, and it brings electro-fire-rates to the Autococker's sumptuous feel and legendary accuracy.
I'd argue that the timer is effectively useless in a gun without a display of some sort, but that's a small quibble. The draining battery is much more of a pain, though I can live with it given how well the thing works when you're shooting it.
The price is staggering, though. Over $600 is going to seem insanely expensive to many. to others who love how the cocker shoots but want the speed to keep up with the Angel shooting across the field, it will be money well spent.
I just can't wait to see the new version. Wait for a full review in the upcoming second issue of What Paintball Gear?.
JS